A Post-production workflow can be complex, if we want to do the job to a professional standard, making it essential to move past the basic elements offered by software like Lightroom, if we intend to excel as professional designers.
But how can we introduce more elements to each image for a custom look, beyond using sliders? Advanced features in form of tools, such as Graduated Filter, Radial Filter and Adjustment Brush, come to the rescue, provided by Lightroom to dedicated users who know what they want. With the help of them, we do selective adjustments in Lightroom.
Let’s explore in detail every single option designed for selective adjustments in Lightroom, and enjoy the many things they can give us through the process.
Graduated Filter Tool
Prior to talking about the Graduated Filter tool in detail, let’s picture ourselves in a post-production scenario, where we need to bring out more detail in a picture that looks similar to the image below.
Notice the two main elements in the scene (the subject and the background) and define the area where you want the adjustment to be applied, as well as the parameters needed.
For instance, I may decide that this subject requires a bit more Clarity in order to make the model appear closer to the camera, and that I should increase Contrast a little bit – but I don’t need those adjustments to be applied to every single area of my scene. This is where the Graduated Filter tool comes in handy.
By selecting the Graduated Filter tool, you will be applying changes to a selected rectangular area, which will have a fading effect near the edges of the area where it is applied, making it blend neatly with the elements around the adjusted area.
Select the adjustments you want to apply to your image, and click then at one point while dragging with the mouse at another point. That will create an application area, which you will notice, if you enable ‘Show Selected Mask Overlay’, is likely to affect the area to the left of the selection you made as well.
After hitting ‘Done’, you can view the adjustments you applied, and if you need to correct any parameter, simply select the tool again, click on the tiny gray button that shows up on the main Develop area, and correct the parameters shown in the slider area.
You can use the Before/After mode to compare the changes applied to the image.
Radial Filter tool
This tool works in a very similar way to its ‘brother’, the Graduated Filter tool, although you have much more control over the selection made, and the applied changes won’t affect the selected area, but rather everything else that is not included in your selection.
Of course, these settings can be changed, if you go to the bottom of the tool panel and hit ‘Invert Mask’.
The Radial Filter tool is likely to become a part of your post-production routine by giving you the liberty of adjusting nearly every single aspect of your image, while discarding everything else that does not needed to be adjusted.
The effects made with this tool are often soft, since you will have exact control over which area you want the parameters to cover, rather than setting an overall value.
Adjustment Brush tool
And what if you need even more freedom to adjust your image? What if I tell you that you can just click on tiny selected areas and apply changes, exactly like you do it inside Photoshop?
The Adjustment Brush tool is intended for extremely specific purposes, such as bringing detail/giving tint/correcting values of tiny, hard to reach areas where precision is a must.
This tool is often overlooked by users, who consider it useful only for ‘beauty jobs’, but the Adjustment Brush tool can do much more. With the right set of presets, you can simulate sunlight in your post-production project!
As you can see, the sky is the limit with these advanced features. Designers work hard in order to provide quality products for these kinds of features, such as brush presets, but the truth is that brushes can work with the previously mentioned tools as well, making your post-production experience much broader.
The only thing Lightroom will demand from you is that you practice to be able to use such advanced retouching tools; but in the end, the effort will be worth it, as you take the first steps on the path of professional photography.
There are times when we need to select things out in an image so that we can only edit the selected part. For those purpose, we have several dedicated tools in Photoshop, and one of them is the Lasso Tool in Photoshop.
Before we begin with lasso Tool, let’s understand selection in Photoshop. Selection is like a lock. When we select any part in image, only that part gets edited. Let’s understand this with the help of Fig. 1. In that image, the dome is selected as you can see marching ants surrounds the dome. So whatever I do now, be it increasing brightness, decreasing contrast or anything, it’ll only affect the dome.
Fig. 1
Now there are numerous tools present in Photoshop for this kind of selection. One among them in Lasso Tool.
Photoshop provides three variants of Lasso Tool. Each one performs same function but being executed differently. These three are:
Lasso Tool
Polygonal Lasso Tool
Magnetic Lasso Tool
Fig. 2 will show you where to find them. You can also press Shift+L again and again to activate selection.
Fig. 2
Now I am going to explain you each of them one by one. They all are very much similar. Let’s start with the first one i.e. Lasso Tool.
Lasso Tool
This tool is like a freehand selection. You just draw on the screen and Photoshop will automatically select the area as soon as you leave the mouse button.
Fig. 3
I am sorry for the not so accurate drawing or selection. I am not good at drawing.
Believe you, you’re never going to use this tool. The other two kinds of Lasso tool may be used by you in future. The reason is that we have other tools that perform same action but with better result in lesser time. There’s nothing there to explain in Lasso Tool.
Let’s move to the Polygonal Lasso Tool.
Polygonal Lasso Tool
This tool is basically present for straight edges. You activate this tool just by clicking anywhere on the image, and wherever you take your mouse cursor, the tool will go with you. To create an edge, you need to click on the point. Fig. 4 will explain things better.
Fig. 4
Are you seeing a gray color line near the edges of the building? They are made with the help of polygonal lasso tool.
I intentionally placed the selection slightly off the edges so that you could see properly.
Let’s understand how it works. I started the selection from the viewer’s left side. You could see the beginning of the selection in Fig. 4. Now I all needed to do is to click on the point where I want my selection to take different path or bend. You are seeing 5 corners in the above selection which means that I clicked on five points.
Let’s move to Magnetic Lasso Tool.
Magnetic Lasso Tool
This tool works like a magic. It automatically detects edges and tries to align itself according to the edges.
Let’s see it in action.
Fig. 5
I know that the result is not perfect, the I appreciate the try. Photoshop does a wonderful job there.
Basically Photoshop looks for drastic contrasts between adjacent pixels and whenever Photoshop finds it, it’ll know there’s an edge present.
So how to handle this tool? The answer is you don’t. It’ll handle itself. All you need to do is to keep the mouse as close as to the edge, and let the Magnetic Lasso Tool performs the rest of work for you.
Now let’s talk about the option panel that comes with the Lasso Tool.
Fig. 6
A. You have seen these four boxes in Marquee Tool’s chapter. I am going to write same for your reference.
New Selection: This function provides you a new selection. Let’s assume that you have selected a custom area in your image and then you don’t like the selection, and want to select a new selection that is going to override the existing selection. This mode is best to do these kind of things. In short you if you deselect a selection by pressing Ctrl+D/Cmd+D and then select a new area, the result would be same.
Add to Selection: I bet 99% of users use this mode. Let’s say you have selected an area and you also want to select another area but don’t want to deselect the existing area. Then, my friends, this selection is perfect for you. Lot of tricky selections can easily be done by this selection. When this mode is on, you’ll see a + sign near your mouse cursor.
Subtract from the Selection: As name says it subtracts the selection. Basically it is just opposite of “add to selection”. You’ll see a – sign just below the cursor.
Intersect with Selection: Suppose you have selected an area A and also selected an area B. A small part of area B lies inside the area A. Then only that small part will be selected. Basically the overlapped are will be selected in this mode. By pressing this you can see a small multiplication(x) bar at the bottom of your cursor.
B. Feather: It softens the selection. It helps a lot when you are creating vignette effect to your photo. You can learn more about it here.
C. Anti-Alias: Photoshop smooths out the color transition between the pixels around the edges of your selection and the pixels in the background.
D. Refine Edge: You have a whole tutorial dedicated to this feature. It is probably one of the mightiest feature in Photoshop.
I hope that you found this tutorial helpful.
Please support TrickyPhotoshop by sharing this tutorial with your friends and family on Facebook, Twitter, and Google+.
Yesterday I ran into a problem as Photoshop was not detecting my NVidia graphic card. I was using Liquify tool and Photoshop was constantly giving me warning that my integrated graphic driver i.e. Intel HD Graphics 4000 is not enough. I did feel some lag in Photoshop while using Liquify filter like zooming in was not smooth.
I tried to google out the fix to that problem, and I couldn’t find a complete solution anywhere. Every site was giving a different fix and none of them was complete. They were partially complete and I had to go to other website to find next trace of the solution.
So I decided to write a complete solution of “Photoshop is Not Detecting Graphic Card” problem.
The first thing I noticed is that my graphic driver was not listed by Photoshop. I have 2GB dedicated NVidia GT 630M graphic card but Photoshop was detecting only my inbuilt Intel HD Graphics 4000 card. Fig 1 is a screenshot of the screen that I was getting yesterday.
Fig.1
So here’s the solution.
The first thing you wanna try out is to update your Photoshop and Graphic Driver.
If you’re using Photoshop CC then make sure it’s up to date with the help of Adobe Creative Cloud.
Fig.2
For older versions, you may want to go to Help>Update to check for the latest version.
Do the same for your graphic drivers.
The above method is recommended by Adobe, and believe me, it’ll never work. Sorry for being rude, Adobe! Just kidding, I am not sorry.
The next thing, or the real fix, is to check your graphic driver settings. You can find it out in your graphics driver’s control panel (not window’s). I am opening my NVidia’s control panel.
Fig 3
In the NVidia control panel, here are the steps:
Go to Mange 3D settings
Go to Program Settings tab
Select the application. Choose Adobe Photoshop (photoshop.exe) in this case
In the preferred graphic processor drop down list, choose High performance NVIDEA processor
Click Apply
Give it 2-3 seconds, and voila!
Now let’s go back to Photoshop. You must restart Photoshop first.
Fig 4
And here it is. Photoshop is properly showing my dedicated graphic card.
I hope it solves yours. In case it’s not, feel free to comment out your problem below. I’ll try my best to solve it.
Please support TrickyPhotoshop by sharing this article with your friends and family on Facebook and Twitter.
Since the past few days I am uploading basic tutorials to my website. So I decided to break the sequence and upload a slightly advance tutorial.
Last time I talked about Elliptical Marquee Tool in Photoshop, and you should check that out if you want to learn some cool Elliptical Marquee Tool tricks.
Today you’ll learn how to create car headlights in Photoshop. We’re going to use one filter and few adjustment layers. Although I said in the beginning that this tutorial is lightly advance but the difficulty of this tutorial is between easy to moderate.
AFTER
BEFORE
STEP 1
The first thing that we need do to is to create a new layer. Press Ctrl+Shift+N/Cmd+Shift+N to create a new layer.
STEP 2
Now search out an image that has good lens flare. Download it.
Now open that image on Photoshop. Select the whole image by pressing Ctrl+A, and then copy the image by pressing Ctrl+C.
STEP 3
Go back to the original image, and paste the image by pressing Ctrl+V/Cmd+V.
Change the blend mode to Screen to remove the black. If you want to know what actually happened when I changed the blend mode to Screen, check out the tutorial on Blend Modes in Photoshop.
STEP 4
Activate the Free Transform Tool by pressing Ctrl+T/Cmd+T. Enlarge the image and place the flare on the headlight. Press Enter/Return when done.
STEP 5
Go to Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Level. The first thing that you need to do is to click on the area that is encircled in the below screenshot.
Now increase the blacks and whites according to your requirement.
STEP 6
Go to Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness/Contrast. Increase the brightness as well as contrast.
And we’re done now. Here’s the final image for you.
FINAL
I hope that you like the tutorial.
Please support TrickyPhotoshop by sharing this tutorial with your family and friends on Facebook, Twitter, or Google+.
Last time we learnt a new tool, Rectangular Marquee Tool, which is pretty much a basic tool. Today we’re going to learn a sister of that tool that performs very much similarly i.e. Elliptical Marquee Tool in Photoshop.
Today we’re going to learn the tool that is present at the top-left corner in Photoshop i.e. Elliptical Marquee Tool.
Fig 1
The main function of Marquee tool is selection. This is the most basic tool present in Photoshop for selection. It is divided into four parts i.e. Rectangular Marquee, Elliptical Marquee, Single Row Marquee, and Single Column Marquee. So let’s start with Elliptical Marquee Tool.
Rectangular Marquee Tool
This tool creates rectangular, and square also as square is a part of rectangle, selection.
To see it in action, grab it from the tool panel as shown in Fig. 2. You can also press Shift+M again and again until it comes.
Fig. 2
Now all you need to do is to drag and drop your mouse to draw a selection. I am going to select the whole moon.
There are two important notes that I want you to remember:
If you want to draw a selection that’s circle using Elliptical Marquee Tool, you need to hold sown Shift, and then drag and drop your selection.
If you want to move your selection or place your selection in a different part of the image, you need to hold down Spacebar and then move your selection.
Option Panel of Marquee Tool
Fig. 4
You might be wondering of those panels that are present at the top all of the time. Let me explain each of them one by one.
New Selection: This function provide you a new selection. Let’s assume that you have selected a custom area in your image and then you don’t like the selection and want to select a new selection that is going to override the existing selection. This mode is best to do these kinds of things. In short you if you deselect a selection by pressing Ctrl+D/Cmd+D and then select a new area, the result would be same.
Add to Selection: I bet 99% of users use this mode. Let’s say you have selected an area and you also want to select another area but don’t want to deselect the existing area. Then, my friends, this selection is perfect for you. A lot of tricky selections can easily be done by this selection. When this mode is on, you’ll see a + sign near your mouse cursor.
Subtract from the Selection: As name says it subtracts the selection. Basically it is just opposite of “add to selection”. You’ll see a – sign just below the cursor.
Intersect with Selection: Suppose you have selected an area A and also selected an area B. A small part of area B lies inside the area A. Then only that small part will be selected. Basically the overlapped are will be selected in this mode. By pressing this you can see a small multiplication(x) bar at the bottom of your cursor.
Feather: It softens the edge of the selection. It is a part of the refine edge tool. We’re going to discuss it in a new chapter.
Anti-alias: By turning on anti-alias your selections softens a little bit. But you cannot control the amount of softens like “feather”. The softening will be done in such a way that Photoshop provides a better selection for different color tones. Until and unless you want extremely sharp selection, keep this feature turned on for better result.
Style: In this drop-down menu you can see 3 sub menu. First is “normal” which is nothing but a default mode. Second is “fixed ratio”. By selecting a fixed ratio you might have realized that the width and the height panel adjacent to it has activated. Now just enter the width vs. height ratio and here you go. The third submenu is “fixed size”. After entering the width and height, no matter how long you drag your image it will select only select the area with the entered dimensions.
Refine Edge: One of the most versatile tool that makes Photoshop different from all the other software’s. Feather that we discussed in fifth point is a part of this tool.
And we’re done here.
Please support TrickyPhotoshop by sharing this tutorial with your family and friends on Facebook, Twitter, or Google+.
When it comes to layer panel, one of the most important things is the blend mode. With the mighty power of it, you can totally change the scenario of an image. Be it the color, style, luminosity, or dimness, you can alter it with just one click.
This tutorial, What are Blend Modes in Photoshop, is dedicated to showing you the power of blend modes in Photoshop.
The good part of blend mode is its vastness, and the sadly the bad part of it is also its vastness. With its vastness, you need a good amount of time to master it. In our busy world, it’s difficult for every one of us to dedicate a good amount of time to learn something, but time invested in something good will always get you a nice result. The same goes here. Blend modes are like leg-fingers of Photoshop; not so useful because we can live without that, but extremely important as they provide balance to our body.
So what is Blend Mode?
Blend mode is basically the behavior of pixels that is based on the behavior of the pixels presents in the below layer. Too much technical? You’ll understand it when I start to explain in blend mode one by one. Till then, ignore the above definition. But make sure you read it again as soon as you’re done with this chapter.
You must be wondering now “where the hell blend mode is located in layer panel?”, “I don’t see anything as blend mode”, the thing is that it’s kind of hidden, and it’s kind of not. For a first time user, it will be a little difficult to find the blend mode as Adobe did not give any title like Blend Mode. In fig. 6.1, you can see the location of Blend Mode. In that drop-down list, you’ll find all 26 blend modes listed there.
Fig. 6.1
1: Normal
This is the most basic blend mode. In this mode, anything drawn on the current layer does not give any effect to the below layer. It basically edits or paints each pixel to make it the resulting color. This is the default mode.
In Fig. 6.2, I painted the baby’s cloth with white color. The result is white color, and there’s nothing special. There’s no special effect, no additional activity, nothing at all. That’s why it is called as the default mode.
Fig. 6.2
2: Dissolve
This mode only works when there’s transparency in pixels. To show it, let’s use Brush Tool and reduce its hardness to 0%. Now the edges of the brush will not be razor sharp, rather it’ll be soft. In Fig. 6.3, I have painted the cloth with the brush with its hardness 0%. Right now the blend mode is Normal.
Fig. 6.3
Now if I change the blend mode to Dissolve, just see the change. Now the edges are a random distribution of dots of the same color. To sum up, Dissolve blend mode edits each pixel to make the resulting color. However, the resultant color is a random replacement of the pixels that depends on the opacity at any pixel location.
Fig. 6.4
3: Darken
Now the fun begins. Above two modes were boring, and you probably will never use Dissolve.
Darken blend mode compares each pixel of the current layer and the layer below it, and shows the pixels that are darker. Just refer to Fig. 6.5. In that image, I have painted the sheet with a dark orange color. Areas where the orange color is darker than the sheet’s white color will display orange color. And the area where the sheet’s dark gray color is darker than the orange color will show the dark gray color.
In Adobe’s language on adobe.com: Looks at the color information in each channel and selects the base or blend color—whichever is darker—as the resulting color.
Fig. 6.5
4: Multiply
This blend mode does a comparatively more complex task. If you paint an area with a color that is darker than neutral gray, the resultant area will be darker. But if you paint an area that is lighter than neutral gray, the resultant area will not show any effect. In short, it only darkens the image.
Refer to Fig. 6.6 for more clarification. I have painted the baby’s cloth with a color that is darker than neutral gray color. So the resultant color is a darker shade of gray. In Adobe’s words: Looks at the color information in each channel and multiplies the base color by the blend color. The resulting color is always a darker color. Multiplying any color with black produces black. Multiplying any color with white leaves the color unchanged. When you’re painting with a color other than black or white, successive strokes with a painting tool produce progressively darker colors. The effect is similar to drawing on the image with multiple marking pens.
Fig. 6.6
5: Color Burn
Works same as Multiply blend mode, the only thing different here is that it results in greater contrast.
In Adobe’s words: Looks at the color information in each channel and darkens the base color to reflect the blend color by increasing the contrast between the two. Blending with white produces no change.
Fig. 6.7
6: Linear Burn
Works same as Multiply blend mode, the only difference here is that it dims the brightness.
Fig. 6.8
7: Lighten
Now that you have understood from Darken to Linear Burn, the thing to cheer up now is that you don’t have to remember anything from Lighten to Linear Dodge. This is because it works exactly opposite to how the above blend modes work. For example, Lighten works exactly opposite of how Darken works.
As you might have guessed its working, unlike Darken, it lightens the image.
Fig. 6.9
8: Screen
Works exactly opposite of how Multiply works. In Adobe’s words: Looks at each channel’s color information and multiplies the inverse of the blend and base colors. The resulting color is always a lighter color. Screening with black leaves the color unchanged. Screening with white produces white. The effect is similar to projecting multiple photographic slides on top of each other.
Fig. 6.10
9: Color Dodge
Works exactly as the screen, but it decreases the contrast also.
Fig. 6.11
10: Linear Dodge
Works same as Screen but in increases brightness additionally.
Fig. 6.12
11: Overlay
The basic function of the mode is to increase the contrast drastically. Whenever I see pretty much dull image, I use this blend mode to make it more drastic. The best way is to duplicate the background layer and change the mode of the duplicate layer to overlay. You can use Cmd+J/Ctrl+J as your keyboard shortcut for this.
This mode lightens the pixels that are lighter than neutral gray color and darkens the pixels that are darker than neutral gray. The result is pretty much high contrast image that sometimes looks like a wedding filter as shown in Fig. 6.13.
Fig. 6.13
12: Soft Light
This mode works same as Overlay but the only difference is that it’s a little bit subtle. Here you won’t see that the colors are washed out like the overlay. Fig. 6.14 is a nice demonstration of that. In that image, Soft Light has increased the contrast of the image by making light color pixels lighter and dark color pixels darker, but the result doesn’t contain any washed out image like Fig. 6.13. The effect is somewhat similar to shining a diffused spotlight on the image.
Fig. 6.14
13: Hard Light
Like the above two modes, this mode also multiplies the colors. The effect is somewhat similar to shining a hard spotlight on the image.
Fig. 6.15
14: Vivid Light
It dodges and burns the colors by increasing or decreasing its contrast. So basically it increases or decreases contrast by two folds. The rest of work is same as overlay blend mode.
Fig. 6.16
15: Linear Light
It works same as Vivid Light but rather than increasing or decreasing contrast additionally, it brightens or darkens the image.
Fig. 6.17
16: Pin Light
This mode is usually used to decrease the contrast. According to the Adobe “Pin Lightreplaces the colors, depending on the blend color. If the blend color (light source) is lighter than 50% gray, pixels darker than the blend color are replaced, and pixels lighter than the blend color do not change. If the blend color is darker than 50% gray, pixels lighter than the blend color are replaced, and pixels darker than the blend color do not change. This is useful for adding special effects to an image.”
17: Hard Mix
As the name is suggesting, this mode gives the hardest contrast than any other mode can provide. Fig. 7.7 is an example of that. According to Adobe “Adds the red, green and blue channel values of the blend color to the RGB values of the base color. If the resulting sum for a channel is 255 or greater, it receives a value of 255; if less than 255, a value of 0. Therefore, all blended pixels have red, green, and blue channel values of either 0 or 255. This changes all pixels to primary additive colors (red, green, or blue), white, or black.”
Fig. 6.18
18: Difference
With this, a new category of blend modes starts. This blend mode subtracts the color of the source from the target layer (or target from source whichever is brighter.
This mode inverts the color if the source image has white color and keeps the color if the source layer has black color. In Fig. 7.8, you can notice that the area where the layer has white color (encircled part), the color inverts in that part in the main image. And the area where it’s black, the color remains the same.
Fig. 6.19
19: Exclusion
This mode works same as Difference, but it results in lighter contrast.
Blending with white inverts the base color values. Blending with black produces no change.
20: Subtract
It subtracts the blend color from the base color. Any pixels that are giving negative value will be clipped down to zero, and hence gives black color as output. This is why the lower half of the image is black in color.
Fig. 6.20
21: Divide
This works exactly opposite of what Subtract does, and hence the result will be opposite of what you get in Subtract.
Fig. 6.20
22: Hue
And here starts a new category.
With the help of Hue blend mode, it creates a result color with the brightness and saturation of the base color and the hue of the blend color. Fig. 7.11 is a perfect example of that. It took the hue of blend color i.e. red, and brightness and saturation of the base color.
Fig. 6.21
23: Saturation
Same as Hue but the difference is that it takes saturation of the blend color rather than hue.
Fig. 6.22
24: Color
It takes hue and saturation of the blend color and brightness of the base color.
Fig. 6.23
25: Luminosity
Creates color with the luminosity of the blend color but hue and saturation of the base color.
Fig. 6.24
With this, we’re done with blend modes. With this done, there is two good news.
The first is the blend mode is one of the most confusing things in Photoshop. With this done, you’re done with one of the most confusing things in Photoshop.
The second is that you don’t need to remember all these 25 blend modes. The blend modes that you’re going to use frequently are Normal, Multiply, Screen, Overlay, Soft Light, and Color. Rest of the blend modes and used rarely.
I hope that you like this tutorial. Please support TrickyPhotoshop by sharing this article with your friends and family on Facebook, Twitter, or Google+.
Believe me, one of the most asked questions on Photoshop is that how do I select complex hair in Photoshop. You might have heard that the refine edge tool helps you with that. You heard it right, but you need more. You might have also heard that the use of Channels also pays off. But do you have enough time to analyze every channel? The third method that you are going to learn is probably the easiest and most efficient way to select complex hair in Photoshop.
If you are presuming that I am not going to use refine edge tool then that’s bad. Definitely, I am going to use Refine Edge tool but not in a traditional way. With the help of layer mask, the performance and output of the refine edge tool improves drastically, and that’s what I am going to show you.
Final
Step 1
The first thing needs to be done is to open that image with messy hair. I am going to select the whole image by pressing Ctrl+A/Cmd+A. As soon as it is pressed, you’ll see marching ants around the edges of the photo. Press Ctrl+C/Cmd+C to copy the area that is inside the marching ants i.e. the whole image.
Open the another photo where you want the face and hair to be placed.
Press Ctrl+V/Cmd+V to paste the selected image. Don’t worry about the unwanted grey background that hid the nice looking wooden background. We’ll fix it soon.
Step 2
The next that needs to be done is to create a highly rough selection around the face, body, and hair.
I am going to use Quick Selection Tool for that. In case you are not aware of this tool, probably the article that I wrote over a year ago may help you. Here it is: How to Use Quick Selection Tool in Photoshop.
Go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal Selection, and you’ll see the unattractive selection comes into the picture.
Step 3
Go to Window>Properties.
Now the trick is here. Instead of using Refine Edge Tool after Quick Selection Tool, we’re going to use it now.
In the Properties tab, click on Mask Edge.
The fact that I am using a picture that is huge in size, I am choosing 250 pixels as my radius. For small images, I choose lower values of radius.
The other bars also help a lot. I have explained all those bars in my tutorial on Refine Edge.
Step 4
Our work is not over here. There are some traces of gray color still presents. It can be fixed with the help of Refine Radius Tool Brush. Press E to activate (make sure that Refine Edge Tool is up and running). Now brush on the areas where there are some traces of background. You can use [ and ] to decrease or increase the size of the brush.